John on Jubilee Climb

Hamish Dunn, John and I headed up to Cloggy in welsh freeze. We had a bash at Jubilee Climb a summer Severe, graded V in winter. Pitch 1: was a fairly straight forward traverse on vertical grass. Pitches 2, 3 and 4 climbed a mixed corner. I led pitch one and set off up 2. At the top of pitch 2 I got spat off by a hard move. Exhausted I offered my lead to Hamish. He took it and I lowered off. Hamish then climbed up and linked pitches 2, 3 and 4 together in one 55 metre pitch. A fantastic lead. This video shows John seconding the top of the long pitch and nearly having a sense of humour failure with the spindrift.

An experienced welsh winter climbing, a couple of days later, advised us that the climb would be VI 7 in Scotland!

At this point it was late in the day, so we decided to abseil off, rather than have an epic in the dark. Little did we know that we’d finish the day getting a ride down in a helicopter after being first on the scene to an injured walker who’d fallen to the bottom of Clogwyn Goch from Snowdon’s summit ridge.


Jubilee Climb - Cloggy from Tom Ripley on Vimeo.